On orders over $70
On orders over $70
-- Scroll to the bottom of this guide to buy orifices and mesh filters---
Not getting enough foam, or is your water blaster surging when using your foam cannon? The orifice or internal mesh filter could be the problem.
The Rockcar Stealth Foam Cannon has two important internal components that influence foam production: a stainless steel orifice that regulates water flow and a stainless steel mesh filter that helps generate thick, consistent foam.
Both are replaceable, allowing you to troubleshoot and maintain your foam cannon without replacing the entire unit.

Inside your Rockcar Stealth Foam Cannon is a small stainless steel orifice that controls how much water can flow through the cannon.
If the orifice is too small for your water blaster, it can restrict water flow and create excessive back pressure. This can affect foam production and, on some pressure washers, cause the pump to repeatedly switch on and off, commonly known as surging.
Changing to a larger orifice can help correct these issues by allowing more water through the foam cannon and reducing excessive back pressure.
The Rockcar Stealth Foam Cannon comes fitted with a 1.1mm stainless steel orifice, suitable for many domestic water blasters.
Alternative sizes are available to suit different machines:
|
Orifice Size |
General Application |
Approx Pressure (PSI) |
Approx Pressure (bar) |
Est. Flow Rate (L/min) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
1.1mm |
Domestic, lower-flow water blasters |
1,000–1,750 |
69–130 |
4–6 |
|
1.25mm |
Medium-pressure water blasters |
1,800–2,600 |
135–180 |
6–9 |
|
1.4mm |
Higher-pressure water blasters |
2,700–4,000 |
185–280 |
9–12 |
|
1.7mm |
High-pressure water blasters |
4,000–5,000 |
285–345 |
12–15+ |
Important: Pressure ranges are supplied by the manufacturer. Flow rates are broad estimates only and have not been verified for the Rockcar Stealth. The correct orifice depends on both your water blaster's operating pressure and water flow rate. An orifice that is too small may cause excessive back pressure and surging, while one that is too large may reduce foam thickness.

The internal stainless steel mesh filter plays an important role in creating thick foam by helping mix the water, cleaning solution and air.
Over time, dried shampoo residue, mineral deposits or other contamination can clog the mesh, restricting flow and reducing foam quality.
If your foam cannon previously produced thick foam but is now producing thin or watery foam, a blocked mesh filter could be the cause.
Cleaning the existing mesh may restore performance, but if it remains blocked or has deteriorated, replacing it can help restore normal foam production.
One of the reasons we recommend the Rockcar Stealth Foam Cannon is its serviceable design and interchangeable components.
Unlike some foam cannons, the Stealth allows you to change orifice sizes to suit different water blasters and replace the internal mesh filter when required.
If you upgrade your water blaster or need to restore foam performance, you can replace the relevant component rather than purchasing an entirely new foam cannon.
Compatibility: These replacement orifices and mesh filters are designed for the Rockcar Stealth Foam Cannon.
Use a crescent or spanner to remove the stainless steel male quick connect fitting from your Rockcar Stealth Foam cannon.

There may be plumbers tape that comes loose, remove this from inside the hole as you do not want the water pushing this through as it can create a blockage.

Look inside and you will see the orifice fitted, and the line of a groove for a flat head screwdriver.

Use a flat head screw driver to unscrew then remove the current orifice.

Keep this somewhere safe in case you need the change it back one day in the future (maybe you get a new water blaster). Insert the new orifice and with a flat head screw driver screw tighten gently first to ensure it is threaded properly (avoid cross threading), then once snug tighten so it is tight.

Please fresh thread tape on the stainless steel male quick connect fitting you removed earlier, insert and thread by hand first to ensure it threads on properly, then tighten till tight with the crescent/spanner.
Use a flat head screw driver to remover the stainless steel pin.

With the locking pin now removed, pull the black nozzle section out.

Remove the centre brass section, this sometimes stays fixed to the brass section to the right in the photo, or sometimes comes out inside the black plastic nozzle piece when your remove it. Remove this, it pulls apart easily.

The mesh filter is inside this removed brass section. There is a trick to remove this, use the stainless pin you removed first as a tool to gently push it out from behind like in the photo.

It will pop out. Rinse everything out so it is clean.

Put the new mesh filter in and reassemble everything in the reverse of what you just did to disassemble it.

Tip, when reassembling, make sure to line up the holes so that the pin can go through easily. Like in the photo you should see clearly though the holes with no obstruction. The same when you install the black plastic over the top. Push it firmly but if it does not want to go together do not force it, stop and make there everything is lined up. When lined up it will go together easily. then push the black plastic nozzle all the way over so all the brass is covered. Look in the two holes, you should see clearly through them without obstruction, then gently put the pin in and push all the way down, it will come out the other end slightly. Job done.

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